Our top reporter stops by Peru’s capital and catches a ride with Ulises, a taxi driver/tourist guide/cop with a thorough knowledge of the city and a great willingness to share it. Ulises takes us to the Rimac area of Lima. Rimac means que habla (“that could speak”) in Quechua, a telling name for this telling ride!

Federico was something of a wanderer in his early days, and describes himself as having been a “pre-hippy.” His father, intent that his son be something other than a vagabundo, probed Federico for any hint of passion, any calling. “It’s called archeology!” he yelled upon hearing that the young man enjoyed exploring ancient ruins.